Ice dams are an accumulation of ice at the lower edge of a sloped roof. When interior heat melts the snow, water can run down and refreeze at the roof's edge, where it's much cooler. If the ice builds up and blocks water from draining off the roof, water is forced under the roof covering and into your attic or down the inside walls of your house.
To help reduce the risk of ice dams:
Make sure your gutters are clear of leaves and debris.
Keep the attic well-ventilated so snow doesn't melt and refreeze on the roof's edge.
Make sure the attic floor is well insulated to minimize the amount of heat rising through the attic from within the house.
Showing posts with label water damage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label water damage. Show all posts
Saturday, February 9, 2013
Sunday, January 13, 2013
The Basics Of Water Damage Equipment
When water damage is involved, each situation is unique and requires careful consideration of a number of factors to ensure that the job is not only done quickly, but properly to prevent mold growth and residual moisture that can cause problems down the line. Depending on the size and scope of the flooding, the location and time of the year, different types of equipment can be utilized to dry out the site.
1. Air Movers
Otherwise known simply as fans, air movers are the most common type of water damage restoration equipment in use these days. The concept is simple: water evaporates when dry air absorbs the lingering moisture, so air movers displace humid air in large enough quantities that speed the process up compared to simply opening the windows or turning the air conditioning on. Air drying is easy and inexpensive compared to other methods; unfortunately, it’s also the slowest method.
Most water damage companies will start with air movers as a foundation for their restoration strategy and utilize other devices in conjunction with them.
2. Dehumidifiers
These devices actively remove humidity from the air instead of moving it around like the fans do. By doing so, they accelerate the process even more when used in conjunction with the air movers. The most common type of dehumidifier is the refrigerant, which works by cooling the air until the humidity condenses. Since cooling the air is less destructive than heating, seeing this unit on-site is almost guaranteed on the majority of jobs. The other type is a desiccant, which extracts water by using chemicals that absorb moisture. This is less common as it can cause damage to common materials used in a home due to its strength.
Dehumifidiers are typically placed in strategic locations according to the moisture readings obtained by the technician.
3. Air Scrubbers
An air scrubber is a device that circulates the air in the environment and has a filter installed to trap particles and gasses. These devices are used to clean the air and make it safe for both the inhabitants and the workers. Without an air scrubber, mold spores and asbestos fibers can be disturbed by the air movers and be scattered everywhere, potentially causing health hazards to humans.
Air scrubbers are typically used on larger jobs where airborne impurities are a concern, as the filters they are fitted with are extremely expensive and their application may not always be needed on smaller restoration jobs.
Since water damage comes in all shapes and sizes, not every piece of equipment will be needed at any given time. The water damage technician assigned to the site will take a moisture reading of the affected area, typically using an infrared sensor, and create a moisture map that indicates the level of humidity in each area. From there on, decisions will be made regarding necessary equipment and placement.
1. Air Movers
Otherwise known simply as fans, air movers are the most common type of water damage restoration equipment in use these days. The concept is simple: water evaporates when dry air absorbs the lingering moisture, so air movers displace humid air in large enough quantities that speed the process up compared to simply opening the windows or turning the air conditioning on. Air drying is easy and inexpensive compared to other methods; unfortunately, it’s also the slowest method.
Most water damage companies will start with air movers as a foundation for their restoration strategy and utilize other devices in conjunction with them.
2. Dehumidifiers
These devices actively remove humidity from the air instead of moving it around like the fans do. By doing so, they accelerate the process even more when used in conjunction with the air movers. The most common type of dehumidifier is the refrigerant, which works by cooling the air until the humidity condenses. Since cooling the air is less destructive than heating, seeing this unit on-site is almost guaranteed on the majority of jobs. The other type is a desiccant, which extracts water by using chemicals that absorb moisture. This is less common as it can cause damage to common materials used in a home due to its strength.
Dehumifidiers are typically placed in strategic locations according to the moisture readings obtained by the technician.
3. Air Scrubbers
An air scrubber is a device that circulates the air in the environment and has a filter installed to trap particles and gasses. These devices are used to clean the air and make it safe for both the inhabitants and the workers. Without an air scrubber, mold spores and asbestos fibers can be disturbed by the air movers and be scattered everywhere, potentially causing health hazards to humans.
Air scrubbers are typically used on larger jobs where airborne impurities are a concern, as the filters they are fitted with are extremely expensive and their application may not always be needed on smaller restoration jobs.
Since water damage comes in all shapes and sizes, not every piece of equipment will be needed at any given time. The water damage technician assigned to the site will take a moisture reading of the affected area, typically using an infrared sensor, and create a moisture map that indicates the level of humidity in each area. From there on, decisions will be made regarding necessary equipment and placement.
Thursday, January 10, 2013
Servpro and Contents Restoration
SERVPRO Cleanup & Restoration
Contents Restoration
SERVPRO Franchise Professionals specialize in the restoration of contents damaged by fire, water or mold. Their expertise can help you save money on your loss.
SERVPRO Franchise Professionals have perfected several methods of cleaning property, including:
Dry Cleaning
Used for the removal of light to medium non-grease based soils, or to pre-clean excess residues prior to wet cleaning.
Wet Cleaning
An effective and aggressive cleaning method for removing moderate to heavy residues.
Spray and Wipe
Effective for materials that might be damaged if saturated with cleaning product.
Foam Cleaning
The technique is used primarily for upholstery fabrics that might shrink when wet or whose dyes would likely bleed.
Abrasive Cleaning
Involves agitation of the surface being cleaned.
Immersion Cleaning
Effective for materials that can withstand being completely saturated with the cleaning product. Contents are dipped into a bath of the cleaning product.
SERVPRO Franchise Professionals will pretest on all losses to determine what can be restored to preloss condition, helping make it “Like it never even happened.”
Contents Restoration
SERVPRO Franchise Professionals specialize in the restoration of contents damaged by fire, water or mold. Their expertise can help you save money on your loss.
SERVPRO Franchise Professionals have perfected several methods of cleaning property, including:
Dry Cleaning
Used for the removal of light to medium non-grease based soils, or to pre-clean excess residues prior to wet cleaning.
Wet Cleaning
An effective and aggressive cleaning method for removing moderate to heavy residues.
Spray and Wipe
Effective for materials that might be damaged if saturated with cleaning product.
Foam Cleaning
The technique is used primarily for upholstery fabrics that might shrink when wet or whose dyes would likely bleed.
Abrasive Cleaning
Involves agitation of the surface being cleaned.
Immersion Cleaning
Effective for materials that can withstand being completely saturated with the cleaning product. Contents are dipped into a bath of the cleaning product.
SERVPRO Franchise Professionals will pretest on all losses to determine what can be restored to preloss condition, helping make it “Like it never even happened.”
Friday, November 9, 2012
Preventing Mold Growth
As many New Jerseyans are being allowed back into their water-logged homes, they’re dealing with a new problem they many not have anticipated: mold.
But, there are a few simple steps homeowners can take to prevent thousands of dollars in structural damage.
“In order to grow, mold has to have moisture,” said Doug Hoffman, executive director of the National Organization of Remediators and Mold Inspectors. “It can get its moisture from an on-going water event, from material that has been soaked or from relative humidity in the air. Whatever steps can be taken to first stop the source of moisture, that has to be a major step in the right direction.”
“You never know what kind of mold you’re dealing with so you want to protect yourself by using a good mask and gloves,” said Hoffman. “Once you are protected, you need to remove standing water, wet carpets, rugs and personal belongings and start up some fans and heaters. If you can use heat along with the movement of air and dehumidification, it will dry out the area much, much quicker.”
When starting the cleaning process, you should never use bleach. “Bleach doesn’t actually kill the mold. It simply makes it go clear. When it comes back, it may be worse than it was before. We recommend highly that people use good enzyme cleaners that don’t have volatile organic compounds,” said Hoffman.
Hoffman offers the following tips:
1. Remove standing water-remove wet carpets, rugs, draperies, personal belongings (if possible) and exterior mulch against the foundation walls, etc., to allow the subflooring and foundation to dry.
2. Dry the structure out as quickly as possible-this is the most important thing you can do as structural mold will begin to form in the first 24-48 hours. Remove water-saturated sheetrock 18 inches above the highest watermark to increase structural drying.
3. Turn up the heat and use a dehumidifier-when drying out a structure and/or its contents, reduce the indoor humidity to less than 60% and use heat to speed the drying process. Hot, dry air dries things faster than cold moist air.
4. Circulate the air-turn on fans and dehumidifiers or open windows if there is no electricity to get air moving around to increase drying.
5. Don’t seal it up until its dry-siding, sheetrock, and flooring repairs should be done only after the substrates are completely dry. Only use plastic to prevent further water damage.
6. Don’t use bleach. It is an effective sanitizer but will not remove mold at its root. The mold will look like its gone but it won’t be.
7. Check your attic. Undetected roof leaks can become big structural mold problems later
8. Inspect windows on the outside of the structure-check for possible water seepage through the caulking/seals.
9. Remove all mold growth on building materials by mechanical means-such as sanding or complete removal.
10. Use sanitizers on any portion of the structure contaminated by sewage or flood waters.
But, there are a few simple steps homeowners can take to prevent thousands of dollars in structural damage.
“In order to grow, mold has to have moisture,” said Doug Hoffman, executive director of the National Organization of Remediators and Mold Inspectors. “It can get its moisture from an on-going water event, from material that has been soaked or from relative humidity in the air. Whatever steps can be taken to first stop the source of moisture, that has to be a major step in the right direction.”
“You never know what kind of mold you’re dealing with so you want to protect yourself by using a good mask and gloves,” said Hoffman. “Once you are protected, you need to remove standing water, wet carpets, rugs and personal belongings and start up some fans and heaters. If you can use heat along with the movement of air and dehumidification, it will dry out the area much, much quicker.”
When starting the cleaning process, you should never use bleach. “Bleach doesn’t actually kill the mold. It simply makes it go clear. When it comes back, it may be worse than it was before. We recommend highly that people use good enzyme cleaners that don’t have volatile organic compounds,” said Hoffman.
Hoffman offers the following tips:
1. Remove standing water-remove wet carpets, rugs, draperies, personal belongings (if possible) and exterior mulch against the foundation walls, etc., to allow the subflooring and foundation to dry.
2. Dry the structure out as quickly as possible-this is the most important thing you can do as structural mold will begin to form in the first 24-48 hours. Remove water-saturated sheetrock 18 inches above the highest watermark to increase structural drying.
3. Turn up the heat and use a dehumidifier-when drying out a structure and/or its contents, reduce the indoor humidity to less than 60% and use heat to speed the drying process. Hot, dry air dries things faster than cold moist air.
4. Circulate the air-turn on fans and dehumidifiers or open windows if there is no electricity to get air moving around to increase drying.
5. Don’t seal it up until its dry-siding, sheetrock, and flooring repairs should be done only after the substrates are completely dry. Only use plastic to prevent further water damage.
6. Don’t use bleach. It is an effective sanitizer but will not remove mold at its root. The mold will look like its gone but it won’t be.
7. Check your attic. Undetected roof leaks can become big structural mold problems later
8. Inspect windows on the outside of the structure-check for possible water seepage through the caulking/seals.
9. Remove all mold growth on building materials by mechanical means-such as sanding or complete removal.
10. Use sanitizers on any portion of the structure contaminated by sewage or flood waters.
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